Every eye shape gorgeous in its own way. But when you have an eye shape that you don’t see as often in the movies and on your Instagram feed, it can be difficult to figure out how to apply your eye makeup so that you feel fierce AF.
Hooded eyelids, which are characterized by a lack of visible lid space and a pronounced brow bone, can feel tricky to work with, especially if you’re looking to people with a defined crease and plenty of lid space for tips. According to Marc Reagan, celebrity makeup artist and director of artistry & education at Hourglass Cosmetics, hooded eyes are actually distinguished by your brow bone rather than your actual eye shape.
If you’re not totally sure whether you have hooded eyelids, look straight into the mirror. You’ll see that your eye socket is tucked in below the brow bone, so your crease is more pronounced, Reagan says. This eye shape is different from monolids, which have no crease at all. However, both monolids and hooded eyelids lack lid space when the eye is open. Here are the best tips you need to know to enhance your hooded eyes, according to some of the best celebrity makeup artists in the biz…
1, Figure out where your lid creases
Though you might think this step is pretty obvious, it’s especially important for hooded eyelids. To figure out where you should place your makeup, look at yourself straight in the mirror to see how your lid tucks and folds in, says Reagan.
2. Use long-wear formulas to avoid creasing
Since hooded eyes are prone to creasing, stick to formulas and textures that ensure long-wear. “Look for ones that are made for the purpose of setting and wearing throughout the entire day,” Reagan says.
3. Contour the eye as your base
Celebrity makeup artist, Matin, recommends laying down a neutral shadow on the center of the lid. “I prefer to use a neutral grey that doesn’t have warm or cool tones,” he says. While it might not look like you did much, it creates a base that will totally open your eye.
“Though it changes from eye to eye, it’s best to do a half moon shape where the hood is the heaviest, right on top of the eyeball,” Matin adds.
4. Define the edges of your lash line first
Take a dark pencil or shadow and stay as close to your lash line as possible, defining the shape of your actual eye line, says Reagan. Keeping the darkest shade closest to the rim of your eye will really enhance and bring out your eye shape.
5. Stick to gel or liquid liners
A regular gel pencil is a little harder to maintain, as it might melt or smudge all over a hooded lid. So again, stick to long-wear products — you want to avoid creasing as much as possible.
If you’re not super comfortable with eyeliner, Matin recommends using a pencil and q-tips to perfect the liner, then going in with a gel or liquid formula on top, once you have the shape right.
6. Blend a dark shade into your crease
With hooded eyes, the brow bone tends to obscure the crease, so Anton Khachaturian, celebrity makeup artist at Exclusive Artists, says the key is balancing the lid with the crease and brow bone.
How do you achieve this? From where you defined your lash line, build on a medium dark matte shade to create contrast on your lid, says Reagan. Blend that shade into your actual crease and a little bit higher, so it’s visible when your eye is open. Placing darker colors in and above your crease will “give the illusion that the crease is higher and the lid is bigger,” Khachaturian also adds.
7. Go over the lid with a shimmer shade
Once you have your defined crease, add shimmer to your lid, blending it into your matte shade, says Khachaturian. Then, finish the look off by highlighting just below the brow bone with a light shimmer shade.
So basically, keep lighter, shimmery shades on the lids, and darker, matte colors closer to the lash line and crease.
8. But avoid adding shimmer on the crease
Adding shimmer makes the hood of your eyelid look heavier and thicker, says Matin. Shimmer would make any crease lines look even more pronounced, so it’s important to use matte shades for the hooded portion of your eye.
9. Add lashes for an extra lift
If you’re a false lashes person, lashes are a great way to open up your eyes even more. According to Matin, you should add longer lashes in the center of your lid, and shorter lashes in the corner. “This is how you create the half moon shape on top of your lid,” he says.
10. Start simple
Establish the simple techniques first, then take them in any which direction as far as intensity and drama, says Reagan. You have to get the basics down and understand your eye shape first.
Sometimes, on hooded eyelids, you might not see all the work that you’ve done when your eyes are open, and that’s OK! It’s all about embracing your eye shape and working with what you’ve got.